A guide to the less known, but more than extraordinary corners of the Apennines in the heart of the territory between Parma, Piacenza and Reggio Emilia.
Being considered a secondary valley actually hides many advantages, both for the place and for those who visit it.
While the environmental context retains a certain mystery and an aura of an area that still preserves a wild character and free from the selfie must tourism, on the other hand, those who go here have the typical feeling that experiences the chosen, that atavistic emotion of the discovery of an unknown horizon denied to the eyes and objectives of the masses.
Heading up from Selva di Ferriere and the Crociglia Pass, you embark on a loop hike that leads to a true paradise for any geologist worth their salt: the Tribolata Valley is a glimpse of a lunar landscape nestled between the Nure Valley and the Aveto Valley.
The pinnacles and rock formations—the result of weathering—conceal the reality ofan underwater volcanic origin: where now the sensations evoked by extraterrestrial-like scenery dominate, there was once an ocean that submerged even the very idea of a mountain—an ocean that separated two continental plates and, within its dark, salty depths, cradled both the Apennines and the peaks that today overlook Italy from above.
Contrasting with the picturesque valley is the uniform, crumbling ridge from which the boulders originate, known precisely as Ciapa Liscia. The entire route lies within the Monte Maggiorasca Site of Community Importance.
To taste
Here, too, it’s a must to alternate your journey of discovery into the planet’s origins with a stop to savor the specialties made with porcini mushrooms—the undisputed stars of many traditional Piacenza recipes, such as sauces and fillings for tortelli, “chicche della nonna,” tagliatelle, and gnocchi.
As you walk along the Tidone Path, it almost seems as if the route itself tells the story of the millers’ tradition. The trail is 69 km long in its entirety (and can be traveled on foot, by bike, or on horseback) and runs along the entire course of the stream of the same name, from Boscone Cusani—where it flows into the Po River—all the way to the province of Pavia.
Starting from Pianello Val Tidone, however, you’ll walk past the ancient mills that line the course of the Tidone stream, gaining an appreciation for the importance of milling—a tradition of which these structures, generally dating back to the 15th century, are now silent symbols. Of the approximately 50 mills you’ll encounter along the route, the one at Lentino houses a museum that can be visited by appointment.
To taste
The DOC Wines of Colli Piacentini —a total of 16 that can be grouped into three main DOP categories (Ortrugo, Gutturnio, and Colli Piacentini)—are the perfect pairing for Piacenza’s DOP cured meats (coppa, pancetta and salami).
Speaking of ancient trades, anyone who takes on the “Postman’s Tour” in the lush and wild Val Boreca can’t help but empathize with the mail carriers who, driven by a sense of duty, trudged through the mountains to deliver mail to villages like Artana, Bogli, Suzzi, Pizzonero, and Belnome—which were not yet accessible by road at the time. About 17 km with over 1,000 meters of elevation gain was certainly no walk in the park!
An island in the mountains where, within just a few kilometers, Liguria, Emilia-Romagna, Lombardy, and Piedmont meet—a place where cultures intersect and the cuisine is a fusion of flavors and tradition.
To taste
The traditional “pin,” small gnocchi made with herbs and ricotta, which provide the calories needed to tackle—and conquer—the climb.
From the Taro Valley, near Ghiare di Berceto, the road climbs through a landscape that is at first barren and steep, characterized by bare, jutting rocks. The valley then gradually becomes greener and gentler until you reach lush chestnut forests that surround the villages of Bergotto and Corchia, which marks the end of the drivable road.
The Manubiola Valley boasts one of the most evocative natural landscapes in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines.
Quite secluded but by no means hidden, the valley offers a surprising variety of landscapes, including Groppo Maggio with its ancient copper mines and Groppo dell’Asino—everyday sights for those who once worked and lived in these places, connected by trails, mule tracks, and small roads.
In Corchia, be sure to visit the museum dedicated to the painter Martino Jasoni, who, like so many others, emigrated to New York and later returned to his valley.
To taste
Part of the Borgotaro porcini mushroom PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) area, Val Manubiola is the ideal setting to savor traditional dishes made with porcini mushrooms and chestnuts, but also to discover the distinctive flavor of “pizza al testo” (a traditional baking method typical of nearby Lunigiana), which finds an extraordinary interpretation in the medieval village of Corchia.
Once you reach the parking lot below the village, your own two feet become the only way to reach Roccaferrara Superiore, one of those precious places preserved by the Parco dei Cento Laghi (The Hundred Lakes Park), where nature and stone intertwine with history.
Walking along the cobblestone path means retracing a history that dates back to the 13th century and is linked to the Rossi family, who certainly could never have imagined that their village would one day be abandoned—a village that today comes alive during the warmer months, the ideal time to venture out on an easy stroll among the traditional architecture and try to imagine the lively rural atmosphere of times past.
To visit
Needless to say, while in this area, it would be a shame not to take the opportunity to visit Corniglio, a mountain village nestled between the Parma Valley and the Bratica Valley, considered a gem for its 13th-century castle and the Church of the Assumption.
Those who take their time and view a hike as an opportunity to appreciate the details of a landscape rich in biodiversity are bound to fall in love with the mosaic of the Tassobbio Valley, where, across approximately 100 km² of land in Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, various crops coexist with forests, waterfalls, and sudden panoramic vistas.
The footbridges that allow you to cross the stream from which the valley takes its name are part of a unique experience, during which you can admire the large number of now-disused water-powered mills that nevertheless give rise to the area’s reputation as the“Valley of the Mills”—a name once given to the area—which is also traversed by the Via Matildica del Volto Santo.
To visit
The must-see destination in Val Tassobbio is Sarzano Castle, a 15th-century fortified complex with double walls, three courtyards, a keep, and a square tower. And when hunger strikes, any spot is a good place to try Reggio Emilia’s green tortelli, stuffed with herbs, ricotta, and cheese.
The Giant,the Dead Man, or the Sleeper: whichever image from popular imagination you choose to highlight, the silhouette of Monte Cusna’s summit is one of the most imposing natural sights in the Alto Appennino Reggiano Regional Park.
To reach it, start from Febbio and follow a trail that winds through the splendid colors of a beech forest before emerging into the glacial valley of Passone.
From here, you can catch a glimpse of the organ-pipe cross on the ridge, which resonates thanks to the wind’s musical rhythm—but this is just one stop along the way to the summit, which you reach by climbing Monte La Piella and skirting around Sasso del Morto.
Must see
Once you’ve made it up here, at over 2,000 meters, after about 3½ hours of hiking, the immediate and unparalleled reward is the extraordinary sunset at high altitude, which is best enjoyed by choosing to hike down on foot as the sun retreats into its soft pink bed.
